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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.